Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
